The Conifer Top
Welcome the return of summer with a super cute crochet tank top that will make you want to spend every day outside just so you can show it off. This crochet top how to will walk you through making your very own crochet tank top from start to finish. This tank top will fit like a glove, since the pattern is made to measure according to your unique body size.
The pattern utilizes an interesting construction that starts with making 4 triangles. It’s mostly double crochet stitches, so it works up quickly despite the thin weight of the recommended yarn.
I’d love to see your versions of the conifer top so if you follow this crochet top how to make sure you tag me! @nineinspired on IG & Tiktok and @nineinspiredblog on Pinterest and Facebook
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Materials
- Slinky Malinky Fingering Weight Yarn – model shown in the color Conifer (or a substitution)
- 3.75 mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
- Stitch Markers
- Embroidery Needle
Abbreviations – US Terminology
ch = chain, sk = skip, st = stitch, sl st = slip stitch, sc = single crochet, dc = double crochet, dc2tog = double crochet 2 together
Special Stitches
Stacked single crochet = stsc
Extended double crochet = edc
Sizing
Small, Medium, and Large don’t mean the same thing everywhere. The best way to create a top that is going to fit you really well is to take your own measurements. Measure around the widest part of your bust to get your chest measurement. For a closer fitting tank top, I recommend subtracting 2 to 4 inches for a nice fit. For example, my actual chest measurement is 36 inches, but I made my top in the 32 inch chest size. This makes the waist more fitted and the material is stretchy enough to make up for the loss of the 4 inches in the bust.
Gauge
My gauge was 17 sts x 12 rows in double crochet = 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm), it is not necessary to exactly match gauge in a made to measure design, but a similar gauge and yarn weight is recommended for best results.
Yardage Estimate
I recommend using this yardage estimator, selecting the option for women’s vest. If you plan on making your top cropped like I did, then you will likely need less yardage than this calculator estimates.
Crochet Top How To: Pattern Overview
Visualizing: we’re going to start by making 4 separate triangle shapes. These will feel similar to the start of a shawl. They will form the foundation of our tank top. Then we’ll connect the triangles and begin to work in the round, increasing and decreasing as we go to form the peaks and valleys of our chevrons.
Triangles (Make 4)
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to the 4th ch to make a circle, work (stsc, 2 dc, edc, 3 dc) in the circle, turn, do not ch. Place a marker in the edc to help you keep track of the point of your triangle. Move the marker up each row when you make another edc.
Row 2: (stsc, 2 dc) in the first st, dc to the marker, (dc, edc, dc) in the marked st, dc to the last st, 3 dc in the last st, turn, do not ch.
Repeat row 2 until the longest side of the triangle is ¼ the length of your desired bust measurement.
For the first 3 triangles, once you reach the desired measurement, fasten off. For the 4th triangle, complete one more repeat of row 2, do not fasten off, continue to the next section.
1st Body Round: Set up your triangles in a line as shown. (Or reversed if you are left handed) The 1st triangle has the last stitch you made on the left and the other Triangles all have their ending tails on the right side.
On the 1st triangle, pull out the last 3 sts you made, then dc2tog and leave the last st unworked for now. Dc in the first st of the 2nd triangle and then go back to dc in the last st of the 1st triangle. This will cross the stitches and make a more secure join.
Dc2tog the next 2 sts on the 2nd triangle and continue to dc to the marker, (dc, edc, dc) in the marked st, dc to the last 3 sts, dc2tog and leave the last st unworked. Dc in the first st of the 3rd triangle and then go back to dc in the last st of the 2nd triangle.
Dc2tog the next 2 sts on the 3rd triangle and continue to dc to the marker, (dc, edc, dc) in the marked st, dc to the last 3 sts, dc2tog and leave the last st unworked. Dc in the first st of the 4th triangle and then go back to dc in the last st of the 3rd triangle.
Dc2tog the next 2 sts on the 4th triangle and continue to dc to the marker, (dc, edc, dc) in the marked st, dc to the last 3 sts, dc2tog and then dc in the last st. Sl st to join to the first dc of the 1st triangle to complete your first round, turn.
2nd Body Round: stsc in the first st, dc2tog, dc to the first marker, (dc, edc, dc) in the marked st, dc to the st before the first crossed sts, dc2tog twice
*Dc to the next marker, (dc, edc, dc) in the marked st, dc to the st before the next crossed sts, dc2tog twice, repeat from * 1 more time.
Dc to the next marker, (dc, edc, dc) in the marked st, dc to the last 3 sts, dc2tog, and then dc in the last st, join to the stsc, turn.
NOTE: Check and make sure that nothing got twisted in that last round. Better to find out now than in 10 rows! Lay the work out in a diamond as shown to see if everything’s good.
3rd Body Round: stsc in the first st, dc2tog, dc to the marker, (dc, edc, dc) in the marked st, dc to the st before the first decrease, dc2tog twice
*Dc to the next marker, (dc, edc, dc) in the marked st, dc to the st before the next decrease, dc2tog twice, repeat from * 1 more time
Dc to the next marker, (dc, edc, dc) in the marked st, dc to the last 3 sts, dc2tog, and then dc in the last st, join to the stsc, turn.
Repeat 3rd body round until your top reaches the desired length. I chose to make my top cropped. It’s about 12.5” from the top of one of the peaks down to the bottom.
Do not fasten off, continue on to the straps.
Straps
1st Strap Setup: Stsc and place a special marker in it (just something that doesn’t look like all the other markers you are using). This marks the middle of the back of your top. Dc2tog, dc to the next marker, (dc, edc, dc) in the marked st, dc 6, leave the remaining sts unworked, turn.
1st Strap Row: Stsc, dc 7, turn.
Repeat 1st Strap Row until your strap is almost long enough to reach comfortably over your shoulder. You want it to be a tad short to account for stretching.
Lay your tank top out flat with the back side facing up towards you. Sl st or sew the strap to the front by locating and matching up the 8 sts on the back of the tank top that line up with the 8 sts of your strap, then fasten off.
2nd Strap Setup: Lay your tank top out flat again with the back side facing up towards you. Attach your yarn in the 6th st to the right of the peak as shown. Stsc, dc 5, (dc, edc, dc) in marked st, dc to the last 3 sts, dc2tog, and then dc in the last st, sl st to join to the specially marked stsc. Fasten off, then reattach your yarn to the marked st and, working in the opposite direction, begin your 2nd strap rows.
2nd Strap Row: Stsc, dc 7, turn.
Repeat 2nd Strap Row for the same # or rows and/or measurement as you did for the 1st strap. Join the strap to the back of the tank top as before.
Bottom Edge
Round 1: Attach your yarn in the starting circle of any of the triangles, stsc, dc evenly along the raw edge of the work, working 2 extended sts in each of the little dips where the triangles meet. When you get back around to the beginning, sl st to join and then turn.
Round 2: Stsc, dc around, fasten off, and weave in ends.
Blocking
Get your tank top wet and gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring or twist). Lay the tank top out on a blocking board or scrap piece of cardboard. Gently prod the tank top into laying flat on the surface. Pin in place and leave to air dry.
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