I was told to bring deviled eggs for Thanksgiving dinner with the fam this year. I’m not much of a cook but hopefully these chenille versions won’t disappoint! If you want to crochet your own, then I’m sure that you’ll be delighted to hear that there’s barely any sewing involved.

I know that chenille yarn gets a bad wrap for being difficult to work with, but it really just takes some getting used to. The softness and sheen are unparalleled, so I find that chenille yarn really elevates the projects I use it on. Plus, if you can’t see your stitches, then neither can anyone else. So if you miss one or add one here and there, you really can’t tell. In this way, chenille yarn can actually be very forgiving!

I’d love to see your versions of these cute crochet Deviled Eggs– so make sure you tag me if you make one! @nineinspired on IG & Tiktok and @nineinspiredblog on Pinterest and Facebook

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Pattern: Crochet Deviled Eggs Amigurumi

Materials

• Premier Just Chenille Yarn in White & Yellow (Worsted #4)
• Premier Parfait Chunky in Red & Black (Super Bulky #6)
• 5mm Crochet Hook
• Embroidery Needle
• Polyfil Stuffing
• Felt & Hot Glue (or safety eyes, or crochet eyes)
• Stitch Markers

Finished Measurements

7x6x5 inches (18x15x13 cm)

Abbreviations 

US Terminology 

ch = chain

st = stitch

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

Notes

Just Chenille is listed as a super bulky #6 but it really feels more like a #4 to me. 

Make the pattern pieces in the order they appear and weave the ends in as you go unless otherwise directed.

Horns (Make 2)

With red, ch 6. Sl st to the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next, hdc in the next, dc in the next 2, fasten off & weave in ends. 

Tail

With red, ch 2.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd st from the hook and turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in the first st, turn.

Row 3: 2 sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st, turn.

Skip the first st and sl st to the next st, ch 16, sl st to the 2nd ch from the hook and in each of the next 14 chs, sl st to the 3rd st of row 3. Sc in the 4th st of row 3, ch 1, and sc again in the same st. Sc 2 sts evenly up the side of the triangle, sc in the top of the triangle, ch 2, and sc again in the same spot. Sc 2 sts evenly down the other side of the triangle. Sc in the corner of the triangle, ch 1, and sc again in the same spot. Sl st to the next st along the bottom of the triangle, sl st in each of the next 15 chs (working on the opposite side that you worked initially). Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Note: Work the rest of the pattern components (legs, body front, and body back) in continuous rounds, using a stitch marker to keep track of the first st of each round. Do not join or turn at the end of a round. 

Legs (Make 2)

With black, magic circle

Round 1: ch 1, sc 6 in the magic circle. (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)

Round 3: decrease* 6 times. (6) 

*Note: Here’s how: insert hook into next st and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next st after the first one and pull up another loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook. 

Rounds 4-8: sc in each st around (6)

Stuff just the balls at the ends of the arms and legs. Leave the tubes hollow.

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Front of Body

With yellow, magic circle

Round 1: ch 1, sc 6 in the magic circle. (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)

Round 3: *2 sc in the first st, sc in the next st, repeat from * around. (18)

Round 4: sc in the first st, *2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 2 sts, repeat from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the last st. (24)

Round 5: *sc in the first 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st, repeat from * around. (30)

Round 6: sc in the first 2 sts, *2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 4 sts, repeat from * to the last 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the last 2 sts. (36)

Round 7: *sc in the first 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st, repeat from * around. (42)

Sl st loosely in the next st and fasten off the yellow color. Attach your white yarn in the sl st, sl st to the next st and proceed to round 8.

Round 8: sc in the first 3 sts, *2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 6 sts, repeat from * to the last 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the last 3 sts. (48) 

Note: These last 3 sts will be the last yellow sc, the yellow sl st, and the white sl st. Reference the picture for how it should look. We’re going to start working in rows to create an egg shape.

Row 1: sc in the next 10 sts, leave remaining sts unworked, turn. (10)

Row 2: sc in the next 10 sts, turn. (10)

Row 3: decrease, sc in the next 6 sts, decrease, turn. (8)

Row 4: sc in the next 8 sts, turn. (8)

Row 5: decrease, sc in the next 4 sts, decrease, turn. (6)

Row 6: sc in the next 6 sts, turn. (6)

Row 7: decrease, sc in the next 2 sts, decrease, do not turn. (4)

Continuing in the same direction, sc down the side of the rows you just made and all the way around the shape and back up the other side to where you started. Sc around everything one more time, fasten off, and weave in ends. 

Make the Face

Orient the front of your body so the right side of the work is facing up towards you and the pointy part of the egg is pointing away from you. Embroider the smile between rounds 4 and 5. Attach the eyes on round 3 about 4 sts apart from each other. Embroider the eyebrows slanted inward one st above each eye and 3 rows wide. The nose stretches across the bottom three sts of the first round. I used two strands of yarn for it.

Back of Body

With white yarn only, repeat all of the instructions for the front of body. You should have 2 rounds of white all the way around the egg shape. We’re going to do another round of white, but we’re going to attach the tail at the same time. Sc about halfway around the shape, and then determine the placement for your tail. Lay the tail on top of the egg shape as shown.

You will crochet 2 sc sts through both layers to secure the tail. Then sc around the rest of the shape to complete your 3rd round. Sc around the entire shape 5 more times, so you have a total of 8 rounds. We’re going to do one more round, but first we are going to mark the placement of the horn. Reference the picture.

The pink marker is the last st of round 8 and the green markers are where we will start to attach each horn. Crochet 3 sc sts to get to your first marker, then crochet 3 sc sts through both the first horn and the body, then crochet around to your second marker and crochet 3 sc sts through both the second horn and the body, then finish off the round by crocheting a sc into the last st. You should end up with 4 sts in between the two horns. Continue to the next section without fastening off.

Assembly

Fold the work in half as shown and mark the placement for the legs using the horns as a guide. There will be 6 sts in between the markers. Now unfold the work and sandwich it together with the front body with the right sides facing inward. Start to sc around going through the 2 layers of the front and the back until you get to the first stitch marker. Tuck your first leg in between the front and back layers so that the opening of the leg is in line with the edge. Make 3 sc sts going through all 4 layers (the front body, both layers of the leg opening and the back body). Then sc to the next stitch marker going through just the 2 layers of the front and back. Repeat the underlined portion for the 2nd leg. Continue to sc around through the 2 layers of the front and back body until there are only about 10 sts left unworked. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Push everything out through that opening to turn the egg right side out, stuff it firmly and sew the opening closed using the yarn tail.

 

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Copyright © 2022 Nine Inspired. All rights reserved.  Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern. I would appreciate it if you would credit Nine Inspired as the designer.