Sally’s Patchwork Bag
Get in the Halloween spirit with this cute Nightmare Before Christmas inspired crochet bag. Sally’s dress is the perfect colorful canvas for a crochet Halloween pattern that’s free and fun. This is an easy level crochet pattern that only uses basic crochet stitches – single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet and treble crochet.
This crochet Halloween pattern is available for free thanks to my awesome tech editor and test crocheters. The pattern has many helpful diagrams and tips to make your crochet bag project a success! There are even instructions for adding a fabric lining if you’d like.
I’d love to see your versions of this crochet Halloween pattern so feel free to tag me if you make one! @nineinspired on IG & Tiktok and @nineinspiredblog on Pinterest and Facebook
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Materials
Suggestions for suitable yarns based on what I actually used:
- Caron Simply Soft Party Yarn weight 4, medium, in Fuschia
- Caron Simply Soft weight 4, medium, in Black
- Loops & Threads Eco-Brights weight 4, medium, in Yellow
- Patons Glam Stripes weight 3, light, in Teal (held double)
As you can see, this is the perfect project for scrap yarn so just have fun with it! You will need less than one skein of each color.
US G-6/ 4 mm hook
(optional) ½ yard of fabric to line your bag along with a sewing needle, thread, and pins or clips
Finished Measurements
Each square measures 4 x 4 in. (10 x 10 cm)
Finished bag is approximately 12 x 12 in. (30 x 30 cm) not including the straps.
Abbreviations – US Terminology
- ch = chain
- st = stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- yo = yarn over
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- sk = skip
Special Stitches
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together—insert hook into st, pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, pull up a loop, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together—yo, insert hook into st pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into the next st, pull up a loop, yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook.
Gauge
15 hdc sts x 12 rows = 4 x 4 in. (10 x 10 cm)
Notes
Starting chains do not count as stitches.
Horizontal Squares (Make 3 Blue, 4 Yellow and 2 Pink)
Row 1: Ch 16, hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (15)
Rows 2–12: Ch 1, hdc in the first st and each st across.
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
For the pink squares only: With black yarn, make a stripe design along the rows using surface slip stitches (you can also embroider the design on with an embroidery needle if you’d prefer).
Diagonal Squares (Make 2 Blue)
Row 1: Ch 2, 3 hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook, turn. (3)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in the first st and each st across, turn. (6)
Rows 3–9: Ch 1, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc across to the last st, 2 hdc in the last st, turn. (8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20)
Rows 10–17: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each st across to the last 2 sts, hdc2tog, turn. (18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4)
Row 18: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc2tog. (2)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
With Black yarn, make a stripe design along the rows using surface slip stitches (you can also embroider the design on with an embroidery needle if you’d prefer).
Note: These squares might not turn out very square. That’s ok! You can block them if you would like them to be more uniform in size. Here’s how:
Step 1: Run water over the square
Step 2: Squeeze out excess water (but do not twist as it may distort the stitches)
Step 3: Lay the square on a piece of cardboard or foam
Step 4: Gently push and pull to form a square shape, pin in place as you go (you don’t need special pins—I use thumbtacks!)
Step 5: Leave to air dry
Circle in a Square (Make 2 Pink)
Round 1: Ch 2, 8 hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st to the top of the first hdc to join. (8) Optional: you may start with a magic ring instead
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in the first st and each st around, sl st to the top of the first hdc to join. (16)
Round 3: Ch 2, 2 hdc in the first st, *hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat from * until you have one st left unworked, hdc in the last st, sl st to the top of the first hdc to join. (24)
Round 4: Ch 2, 2 hdc in the first st, *hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat from * until you have two sts left unworked, hdc in the last 2 sts, sl st to the top of the first hdc to join. (32)
Round 5: Ch 2, 2 hdc in the first st, *hdc in the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat from * until you have three sts left unworked, hdc in the last 3 sts, sl st to the top of the first hdc to join. (40)
Round 6: Ch 2, hdc in the first 3 sts, *2 dc in the next st, (2 tr in the next st) x2, 2 dc in the next st, hdc in the next 6 sts, repeat from * until you have three sts left unworked, hdc in the last 3 sts, sl st to the top of the first hdc to join. (56)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
With black yarn, make a swirl design using surface slip stitches (you can also embroider the design on with an embroidery needle if you’d prefer).
Joining the Squares
Step 1: Lay the squares out according to diagram 1. Feel free to switch up the order—these are just suggestions!
Step 2: We’ll start by joining the top yellow block with the top pink striped block. Hold the two squares together with the wrong sides facing out (the wrong side is the side without the design and/or the side where your yarn tails are hanging out if you never tucked them in). You’ll be working your stitches through both squares.
Step 3: Join black yarn to the corner, *ch 1, sk 1 st, sc, repeat from * across to the opposite corner. If the side of the square you are looking at doesn’t have stitches that you can see easily, just skip the equivalent distance of a single st. Continue to join squares in this fashion without fastening off. Follow the path of the arrows in diagram 2. Then follow the path of the arrows in diagram 3. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Step 4: Rejoin yarn at the right corner of the lowest yellow square, as indicated in diagram 4 to attach the yellow and blue stripe squares together. Follow the path of the arrows and join the blue stripe and pink stripe squares together. Fold the middle yellow square as shown, then join the pink stripe and blue squares on the side. You will see your bag starting to take shape! Fasten off and weave in ends.
Step 5: Rejoin yarn at the bottom left corner to attach the yellow and pink swirl squares. We’ll mirror what we did on the last step according to diagram 5. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Step 6: Now that your bag is folded along the middle square, it should look like diagram 6. Fold in the blue stripe square and rejoin yarn to attach the blue stripe square to the blue and yellow squares, following the path of the arrows.
Step 7: Work the sides with the green arrows like this: sc evenly up the side of the yellow square, 2 sc at the top, sc evenly down the other side of the yellow square. When you get to the valley between the blue stripe and yellow squares, sc2tog the last st of the yellow square with the first st of the blue stripe square. Sc evenly up the side of the blue stripe square, 2 sc at the top, sc evenly down the other side of the blue stripe square.
Step 8: To finish joining, fold in the yellow square to complete the last 2 sides as you did in step 6. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Step 9: Flip the bag over so the other side is facing you and rejoin yarn. Complete the edging just like you did for the section with the green arrows in step 7. Do not fasten off. You should now have one round of single crochet stitches along the entire top edge of your bag.
Step 10: Reference diagram 7 for this next part. Continue to sc up to the top of the next square. Ch 75, sl st to the top of the next square. Sc down the side of the current square, sc2tog with the last st of the current square and the first st of the next square on the other side of the bag, continue to sc up to the top of the next square. Ch 75, sl st to the top of the next square. Sc down the side of the current square, sc2tog with the last st of the current square and the first st of the first square.
Step 11: Complete two more rounds working one sc into each sc and ch around. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Step 12: Reference diagram 8 for this next part. Rejoin yarn along the underside of the starting ch of the handle. Complete two rounds of working one sc into each ch and sc around. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for second strap.
Lining (Optional)
Step 1: Fold the fabric in half with the wrong side facing out. Trace the shape of your bag onto the wrong side of your fabric—you want the fabric cut out to be just a little bit bigger than the actual size of the bag. Cut the shape out—you should have two pieces of the same shape since you folded your fabric in half.
Step 2: Stack your two fabric shapes so that the wrong sides face out. Stitch along the sides and bottom as shown in diagram 9. Fold the top edges back ¼–½ in. and iron them so they stay put. This will give you nice crisp lines instead of rough edges from cutting.
Step 3: Tuck the lining inside your bag so that they line up with each other . Pin or clip the two layers together at each peak so it stays aligned while you sew. Sew the bag and the lining together around the top—I recommend using the back stitch and black thread to match the edging.
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Love the fact that this crochet Halloween pattern is free? Check out these other spooky season favorites:
Sally’s Patchwork Pumpkin – Free Pattern
Sally’s Patchwork Heart Free Baby Blanket Pattern
Harry the Scary Spider – Free Pattern
Mini Witch Hat Halloween Advent Calendar – Free Pattern
Poison Apple Applique – Free Pattern
Copyright © 2019-2024 Nine Inspired. All rights reserved. Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern. I would appreciate it if you would credit Nine Inspired as the designer.