Cozy up with a cute crochet cardigan pattern that’s free. Choose a self striping yarn in DK or Worsted weight and see how fun it is to watch your work grow as you crochet. (yes, there are two gauges for this one pattern so it’s very flexible!)

The Caramel Fog Crochet Cardigan pattern free version features a relaxed and casual fit, cozy textured puff sleeves, extra long length, and POCKETS! Best of all, the pattern is SIZE INCLUSIVE and available in sizes S-5X. Stitch counts and row counts for all the different sizes are presented in easy to read tables rather than having all the numbers within parentheses separated by commas.

The design includes plenty of photos and diagrams to help you master the special crochet stitches involved and visualize the construction of the pattern as you go along. I would rate this pattern at an intermediate level. More experienced crocheters will also appreciate that the simple structure of this Caramel Fog Crochet Cardigan pattern free version leaves lots of wiggle room for customizations.

I’d love to see your versions of the Caramel Fog Cardigan – so make sure you tag me if you make one! Please use #caramelfogcardigan and tag me @nineinspired on IG & Tiktok and @nineinspiredblog on Pinterest and Facebook

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Copyright © 2023 Nine Inspired. All rights reserved.  Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern. I would appreciate it if you would credit Nine Inspired as the designer.

Crochet Cardigan Pattern – Free Version

Materials

• DK (Double Knit aka Sport) or WW (Worsted Weight) Yarn (Samples shown in Caron Skinny Cakes “Tiramisu” and Caron Jumbo Ombre)
• 5 mm crochet hook (or whatever size is needed to obtain gauge)
• Stitch Markers
• Embroidery Needle
• Tape Measure

Finished Measurements & Yardage Estimates

Note: This cardigan was designed with 4” positive ease. Size down for a fitted look.

Size	Length	Chest	Yardage DK	Yardage WW
S	27.5”	38”	1550	1400
M	27.5”	42”	1700	1600
L	28.25”	46”	1875	1700
XL	28.25”	50”	2000	1875

2X	28.75”	54”	2125	2025
3X	28.75”	58”	2250	2100
4X	29.25”	62”	2375	2350
5X	29.25”	66”	2600	2450

Abbreviations 

US Terminology

ch = chain

sk = skip

st = stitch

yo = yarn over

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

blo = back loops only

flo = front loops only

Special Stitches

Stsc = stacked single crochet

Here’s how to stsc in the starting chain:

And here’s how to stsc at the beginning of a row:

Gauge

Note: This pattern has 2 gauges. One for DK weight and one for Worsted weight. Complete your gauge swatch with the yarn of your choice and compare it to the two gauges listed here. If it matches one, then go with that one (even if it doesn’t match the weight on the yarn label). If it’s off, read the troubleshooting section.

DK Weight = 9 rows x 16 stitches = 4 x 4 inches

Worsted Weight = 8 rows x 14 stitches = 4 x 4 inches

Pattern for Gauge

Row 1: Ch 20, stsc in the back bump of the first chain, dc across. Ch 1 and turn. 

Row 2: Hdc in the first st and in each st across. Do not ch, turn your work. 

Row 3: stsc, dc blo across to the last st, dc in both loops for the last stitch. Ch 1 and turn. 

Rows 4-13: Repeat rows 2 & 3.

Measuring Gauge

Use a ruler or tape measure to measure 4 inches of stitches in the middle of your swatch – do not include your first or last stitches as those stitches can be inconsistently sized. Count the number of stitches you can measure in those 4 inches. Then measure 4 inches of rows in the middle of your swatch – do not include your first or last rows.  Count the number of rows you can measure in those 4 inches.

Troubleshooting

• If your swatch ends up too small, try again with a larger hook size – 1 half or full size up. 
• If your swatch ends up too big, try again with a smaller hook size – 1 half or full size down.
• If your number of rows is right but your number of stitches is off, then you will need to try again with a different size hook. It is much more important to match the number of stitches! If your gauge is even 1 or 2 stitches off, it can add up to a big size difference in the end. 
• If your number of stitches is right, but your number of rows is off, that’s ok.  I have given measurements as well as row counts to make things easier. Just keep a tape measure handy!

Good to go? Let’s get started!

Pattern

Visualizing: There are 2 front panels and 1 back panel. They are worked separately in back and forth rows. Once the pieces have been sewn together, the sleeves are added onto the arm holes by working in the round. Then we add an edging, a collar, and the 2 pockets. Note: For self striping yarns, you will want to make one front panel, then the back panel, and then make the other front panel last. 

Starting Chain:

S DK / S WW	M DK / M WW	L DK / L WW	XL DK / XL WW
110 / 96	110 / 96	113 / 99	113 / 99

2X DK / 2X WW	3X DK / 3X WW	4X DK / 4X WW	5X DK / 5X WW
115 / 101	115 / 101	117 / 103	117 / 103

Note: You can add more chain stitches here or take some away to adjust the length of your cardigan. Just make sure to write the number of chain stitches down somewhere so you can replicate it for the other pieces. 

Front Panels (Make 2) 

Row 1 (right side): stsc in the back bump of the first chain, dc across. Ch 1 and turn. 

Row 2 (wrong side): Hdc in the first st and in each st across. Do not ch, turn your work. 

Row 3: stsc, dc blo across to the last st, dc in both loops for the last stitch. Ch 1 and turn. 

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until your work reaches the following row total or measurement:

S DK / S WW	M DK / M WW	L DK / L WW	XL DK / XL WW
20 / 18 rows	23 / 20 rows	25 / 22  rows	27 / 24 rows
9”	10”	11”	12”

2X DK / 2X WW	3X DK / 3X WW	4X DK / 4X WW	5X DK / 5X WW
29 / 26 rows	31 / 28 rows	34 / 30 rows	36 / 32 rows
13”	14”	15”	16”

Back Panel

Note: the starting chain amount is the same as it was for your front panels. The instructions for the rows are also the same. The only things that change are the row total and measurement. 

Row 1: stsc in the back bump of the first chain, dc across. Ch 1 and turn. 

Row 2: Hdc in the first st and in each st across. Do not ch, turn your work. 

Row 3: stsc, dc blo across to the last st, dc in both loops for the last stitch. Ch 1 and turn. 

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until your work reaches the following row total or measurement:

S DK / S WW	M DK / M WW	L DK / L WW	XL DK / XL WW
45 / 40 rows	50 / 44 rows	54 / 48 rows	59 / 52 rows
20”	22”	24”	26”

2X DK / 2X WW	3X DK / 3X WW	4X DK / 4X WW	5X DK / 5X WW
63 / 56 rows	68 / 60 rows	72 / 64  rows	77 / 68 rows
28”	30”	32”	34”

Assembly

Use stitch markers to mark off your armhole depth (see chart below). Seam the sides and top as shown. I really recommend sewing instead of slip stitching, because it makes a much nicer seam. 

Lay your back panel flat and place the two front panels on top so that they line up with the outer edges of your back panel. There should be a gap in between your two front panels. The right sides of your panels should be sandwiched together, and the wrong sides should be facing out.

I like to use the mattress stitch, here’s how: go in and out of one side, then go in and out of the other side, and repeat. Pull the string tightly to bring the two sides together, and the string you used to sew them together will basically disappear.

Sleeves (Make 2)

Note: Turn your sweater right side out before starting the sleeves. Sleeves are worked in continuous rounds of long moss stitch (see 1st image below) to avoid visible seams. Use a stitch marker to keep track of your rows. Regular moss stitch (see 2nd image below) is a good substitute stitch if you find that your sleeves are coming out a bit too stiff. I used this method for the WW version.  

Option 1 – Long Moss Stitch 

Round 1: Join yarn in one armhole in any stitch. Evenly single crochet around the armhole, do not join. (See 1st image)

Round 2: Dc in the first st, ch 1, sk 1, dc in the next st, repeat the underlined portion around. (Your first dc will slant – that’s ok – see 2nd image)(See 3rd image for the placement of your first stitch of round 3.)

Round 3: Ch 1, dc in the next st from the last row (not the chain space), sk the next dc, repeat the underlined portion around.

Option 2 – Regular Moss Stitch 

Round 1: Join yarn in one armhole in any stitch. Evenly single crochet around the armhole, do not join. 

Round 2: Sc in the first st, ch 1, sk 1, sc in the next st, repeat the underlined portion around. 

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in the next chain space, sk the next sc, repeat the underlined portion around. 

Repeat round 3 until your sleeve is just shy of reaching your wrist. It should be close to the following row total or measurement:

	S DK / S WW	M DK / M WW	L DK / L WW	XL DK / XL WW
Long Moss	54 / 46 rows	54 / 46 rows	56 / 48 rows	56 / 48 rows
Regular Moss	78 / 62 rows	78 / 62 rows	80 / 64 rows	80 / 64 rows
	15.5”	15.5”	16”	16”

	2X DK / 2X WW	3X DK / 3X WW	4X DK / 4X WW	5X DK / 5X WW
Long Moss	58 / 50 rows	58 / 50 rows	60 / 52 rows	63 / 54 rows
Regular Moss	82 / 66 rows	82 / 66 rows	84 / 68 rows	86 / 72 rows
	16.5”	16.5”	17”	18”

For long moss only: Undo the last dc you made and hdc instead. Ch 1. Sc in dc below, ch 1, sk 1, sc in next dc repeat the underlined portion around, sl st to join to the first sc. Continue to the next section without fastening off. 

For regular moss only:  Ch 1, sk 1, and sl st to the next ch sp. Continue to the next section without fastening off. 

Cuffs (Make 2)

Note: Cuffs are worked in tunisian knit stitch. Don’t worry if you are unfamiliar with tunisian crochet. You don’t need a special hook, and I will walk you through it step-by-step. Tunisian crochet makes these cuffs extra stretchy so we can make them quite small and really accentuate the slouchy puff sleeves. If you would prefer, you can work the cuffs with ribbed single crochet  or with post stitch ribbing. 

Row 1: Ch 8, pull up a loop in the 2nd ch from the hook and the next 6 chains, insert hook into next ch space along sleeve and pull up a loop (9 loops on hook – see 1st image below), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, repeat the underlined portion until 1 loop remains (see 2nd image below). 

Row 2: Insert your hook into the next vertical bar (see placement in 1st image below), yarn over and pull up a loop (see result of this in the 2nd image below), repeat the underlined portion for a total of 7 times, then insert hook into next ch space along sleeve and pull up a loop (9 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, repeat the underlined portion until 1 loop remains. As your work grows, your starting chain will likely curl up and your sleeve will start to pucker (see 3rd image below). Then you know you’re on the right track! 

Repeat row 2 until you make it all the way around your sleeve, then check to make sure you can still get your hand through it. You can add a couple rows here if needed, just reuse the last ch space you worked into and the first ch space you worked into. Then fasten off leaving a long tail. Turn your sleeve inside out, and use your yarn tail to sew the two sides of the cuff together. Again, I recommend using the  mattress stitch.

Edging

Hem: Following either the left handed or right handed diagram, attach your yarn at the spot indicated by the star. You will probably want to turn your work so it’s upside down. Sl st across the right front panel (arrow 1) working one stitch in from the edge, continue to sl st across the back panel (arrow 2), and continue to sl st across the left front panel (arrow 3). Turn to work back across the sl sts. Ch 1, and hdc back to your starting point. Do not fasten off. Continue to the next step.

Inside Edge: hdc 2 more in the corner so there’s 3 total, dc up the inside edge of the front panel (arrow 4), continue to dc across the middle bit of the back panel (arrow 5), continue to dc down the inside of the opposite front panel, hdc 2 more in the corner so there’s 3 total, sl st to join to the first hdc in the corner. 

Collar

Note: You can add additional rows here if you prefer a wider collar, or if you want to be able to fold it over. Repeat row 2 as much as you want and then finish off with row 3. 

Placement: Place 1 stitch marker on either side of the front panel inside edges to mark the area where your collar will be. (See the stars in the picture for reference) I made mine about 12 inches from the top, but feel free to make it shorter or longer to suit your style. Attach your yarn at the marker on the left side.

 

Row 1: Ch 3, sk 1, dc in the next st, sk 1, ch 1 repeat the underlined portion across to the next marker, dc in the marked stitch, turn your work.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in the stitch below the ch space, ch 1, sk 1, dc in the next st, sk 1, ch 1 repeat the underlined portion across to the last ch space and stitch, hdc in the stitch below the ch space, leave the last stitch unworked, turn

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the stitch below the ch space, ch 1, sk 1, sc in the next st repeat the underlined portion across, sl st to the turning ch.

Pockets (Make 2)

Location: Use stitch markers to plan out your pockets. I did mine two rows in from the inside edging and 5 stitches up from the bottom (not counting the edging). Place the markers in the raised ridges. You can put the cardigan on and see where your hands naturally fall to see where the best place would be for you.

Size: I made my pockets 26 stitches tall, and 20 rows wide. You can switch up these numbers to see what would be a good size for pockets as uniquely sized as you are! 

Row 1: Attach your yarn at one of the marked corners (righties – purple marker top right or pink marker bottom left, lefties – red marker top left or blue marker bottom right). You will be working in the raised ridges created by the stitches worked in the back loops only. Stsc, then dc in each stitch across to the opposite marker. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: Hdc in the first st and in each st across. Do not ch, turn your work. 

Row 3: stsc, dc blo across to the last st, dc in both loops for the last stitch. Ch 1 and turn. 

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until your pocket  reaches past your second set of markers by 1-3 rows. End on a repeat of row 3. 

Final Row: Sc to join your pocket to your cardigan like this: Insert your hook into the first stitch of the last row and then insert your hook into the first marked stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Continue to sc to join all the way across to your other marker. Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew the bottom of your pocket onto your cardigan. 

Sewing: Thread your embroidery needle with your yarn tail. Hold the embroidery needle horizontally so that it is parallel to your work. Slip the needle under one or two loops of yarn on the surface of your work, then slip your needle through the end of the next row of your pocket, repeat the underlined portion across. 

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Copyright © 2023 Nine Inspired. All rights reserved.  Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern. I would appreciate it if you would credit Nine Inspired as the designer.