Girls’ Crochet Skirt Pattern Free – The Lil Rebel Skirt

This girls’ crochet skirt pattern free version was designed to show off your little one’s personality and inspire their creativity. Girls don’t always have to look pretty and perfect. The relaxed fit and above knee length of this skirt frees girls up to jump, run and play with the best of them!⁠ Girls will be girls – adventurous, strong and spirited! ⁠

This detailed crochet skirt pattern free version features:
~a stretchy ribbed waistband with room to grow
~a tie waist for a stay put fit
~above knee length for freedom of movement
~no holes crochet stitchwork – no slip required
~a fun and funky bicolor design

I used Universal Yarn Bamboo Pop for this crochet skirt pattern free version. The natural fibers are breathable and lightweight – both critical for summer wearables your kiddo will actually want to wear. I was a little hesitant about the DK weight at first, but I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly the Lil Rebel Skirt worked up and came to life on my crochet hook. The resulting fabric made with the Universal Yarn Bamboo Pop and linked double crochet stitches isn’t see though at all. It’s also stretchy and it moves and drapes just like real fabric.

There are two more super important reasons that I chose Universal Yarn Bamboo Pop for this design. The first reason is that it’s machine washable. Because nobody has time to hand wash clothes – especially kids clothes! The second reason is that it has really generous yardage. Depending on what size you are making, you will only need to purchase 2-4 skeins of yarn total. Nobody wants to break the bank on a crochet skirt pattern that’s free, since your kiddo will only be able to wear it for about a year!

Save This Pattern For Later

Purchase an Ad-Free Printable PDF


Crochet Skirt Pattern Free Version:

Materials

1 Skein Universal Yarn Bamboo Pop Orchid Smash (2 skeins for 9/10 & 11/12 size)

1 Skein Universal Yarn Bamboo Pop Black (2 skeins for 9/10 & 11/12 size)

4 mm hook

Skill Level – Intermediate

Sizes

3/4  (5/6, 7/8, 9/10, 11/12)

Yardage

3/4 = 180 Yards of Each Color

5/6 = 225 Yards of Each Color

7/8 = 260 Yards of Each Color

9/10 = 310 Yards of Each Color

11/12 = 340 Yards of Each Color

Finished Measurements

3/4 = 17” waistband unstretched, 8” length

5/6 = 21” waistband unstretched, 10” length

7/8 = 24” waistband unstretched, 12” length 

9/10 = 25” waistband unstretched, 14” length

11/12 = 27” waistband unstretched,15” length

Abbreviations 

US Terminology

ch = chain

st(s) = stitch(es)

sk = skip

sc = single crochet

blo = back loops only

sl st = slip stitch

inc = increase

rs = right side

ws = wrong side

Special Stitches

ldc = linked double crochet 

To work the first ldc of the row: ch 3, pull up a loop in the 2nd ch from the hook, insert hook into the first stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the final 2 loops. 

To make subsequent ldc stitches: pull up a loop in the horizontal bar of the previous ldc, insert hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the final 2 loops.

You can also learn how to do the linked double crochet stitch from great video tutorials on Youtube by Morale Fiber or Moogly

Notes

Beginning ch 3 does not count as a stitch.

Stitch counts for each row are given in parentheses at the end. 

Color Changes: When working the last dc of the current color, leave the last two loops on the hook and pull through with the new color. 

Gauge

20 sts x 10 rows = 4 inches

Row 1: Ch 23, pull up a loop in the 2nd ch from the hook, pull up a loop in the 4th ch from the hook, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the final 2 loops. Work 1 ldc into each remaining ch across, turn. (20)

Rows 2-10: Ch 3 (does not count as a stitch), ldc in the first st and each st across. (20)

Your swatch should roughly measure 4 inches by 4 inches. If not, adjust hook size up or down accordingly.

Front of Skirt

Waistband

With Purple

Row 1: Ch 21, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each ch across. 

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the 1st st through both loops, sc blo in the next 18 sts, sc in the last st through both loops. (20)

Repeat Row 2 until you have 20 (24, 27, 28, 30) total rows.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the 1st st through both loops, sc blo in the next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1, sc blo in the next 10 sts, ch 1, sk 1, sc blo in the next 3 sts, sc in the last st through both loops.

Repeat Row 2 two more times.

Repeat Row 3 once more.

Repeat Row 2 until you have 44(52, 58, 60, 64) total rows. Do not fasten off. Continue to the next section.

Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, working through both halves, sc 1 in the end of each row. Your stitch count for the row will equal the total number of rows in your waistband, turn. 44 (52, 58, 60, 64)

Continue without fastening off.

Skirt

Note: When switching colors, always drop your yarn on the “wrong side” of your work. We’ll be hiding any awkward color changes on the inside of the skirt when we sew it up. 

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, ldc in the first st, ldc in the next 42 (50, 56, 58, 62) sts, switch to black on the last yo, ldc in the last st. [1 black and 43 (51, 57, 59, 63) purple sts] 

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, carrying the purple yarn along with you, ldc 2 in the first st, ldc in the next st, switch to purple on the last yo, drop the black yarn and do not carry it. ldc in the next 41 (49, 55, 57, 61) sts, ldc 2 in the last st. [3 black and 43 (51, 57, 59, 63) purple sts]

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, ldc in the first st, ldc in the next 40 (48, 54, 56, 60) sts, (you should now have 2 unworked purple sts remaining) switch to black on the last yo and work the remaining ldc sts. Work over the black yarn end as you go. Drop the purple yarn and do not carry it. [5 black and 41(49, 55, 57, 61) purple sts]

Row 4 (WS): Ch 3, ldc 2 in the first st, ldc in the next 5 sts, switch to purple on the last yo, ldc in the next 39 (47, 53, 55, 59) sts, ldc 2 in the last st. [7 black and 41 (49, 55, 57, 61) purple sts]

Continue working in this fashion. You’ll be increasing one on each side on every even row. Do not increase on odd rows. Stitch counts for purple stitches, black stitches and total stitches are shown in the first chart titled “Front of Skirt Stitch Counts”. All odd rows are worked on the “right side” and all even rows are worked on the “wrong side.”

Back of Skirt

Waistband

With Black

Row 1: Ch 21, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each ch across. 

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the 1st st through both loops, sc blo in the next 18 sts, sc in the last st through both loops. (20)

Repeat Row 2 until you have 44 (52, 58, 60, 64) total rows. Do not fasten off. Continue to the next section.

Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, working through both halves, sc 1 in the end of each row. Your stitch count for the row will equal the total number of rows in your waistband, turn. 44 (52, 58, 60, 64)

Continue without fastening off.

Skirt

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, ldc in the first st, ldc in the next 42 (50, 56, 58, 62) sts, switch to purple on the last yo, ldc in the last st. [1 purple and 43 (51, 57, 59, 63) black sts] 

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, carrying the black yarn along with you, ldc 2 in the first st, ldc in the next st, switch to black on the last yo, ldc in the next 41 (49, 55, 57, 61) sts, ldc 2 in the last st. [3 purple and 43 (51, 57, 59, 63) black sts]

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, ldc in the first st, ldc in the next 40 (48, 54, 56, 60) sts, (you should now have 2 unworked black sts remaining) switch to purple on the last yo and work the remaining ldc sts. Work over the purple yarn end as you go. Drop the black yarn and do not carry it. [5 purple and 41(49, 55, 57, 61) black sts]

Row 4 (WS): Ch 3, ldc 2 in the first st, ldc in the next 5 sts, switch to black on the last yo, ldc in the next 39 (47, 53, 55, 59) sts, ldc 2 in the last st. [7 purple and 41 (49, 55, 57, 61) black sts]

Continue working in this fashion. You’ll be increasing one on each side on every even row. Do not increase on odd rows. Stitch counts for purple stitches, black stitches and total stitches are shown in the second chart titled “Back of Skirt Stitch Counts”. All odd rows are worked on the “right side” and all even rows are worked on the “wrong side.”

Finishing

To make the drawstring: Working with one strand of black yarn and one strand of purple yarn held together, chain stitches until your length of chain reaches approximately 22 (28, 31, 32, 34) inches. Make sure to put the drawstring in before you do the next step. (A tunisian crochet hook works wonders here or grab a safety pin and follow this tutorial)

Sandwich the front and back of the skirt together, with the wrong sides of each piece facing each other. Reference the diagram to determine which sides go together. Starting at the bottom, seam the sides together using single crochet stitches or the sewing join of your choice. (I recommend the mattress stitch) Don’t fasten off your yarn just yet.

Turn the skirt right side out. You will have a small piece on either side of the waistband that needs to be seamed. This cannot be hidden, so you will want to sew it closed instead of using single crochet. (Again, the mattress stitch is a great choice)

____________________

Love this pattern? You might like these other crochet patterns:

Cookie Cutie Skirt

Ice Cream Ripple Scarf

Copyright © 2023 Nine Inspired. All rights reserved.  Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern. I would appreciate it if you would credit Nine Inspired as the designer.