Crochet isn’t just for winter! Make yourself a cute summer wearable with this Crochet Top Pattern. Using tunisian crochet, you can create a shirt that isn’t stiff like regular crochet can be. The best part is that you can’t see through the stitches (except for the attractive lace panel in the back) so you don’t have to worry about wearing an undershirt.
I’d love to see your versions of the Seafoam Summer Top – so make sure you tag me if you make one! @nineinspired on IG & Tiktok and @nineinspiredblog on Pinterest and Facebook
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Tunisian Crochet Top Pattern – Free
Materials
Lion Brand Truboo Yarn – model shown in the color Seafoam
5 mm tunisian crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Stitch Markers
Embroidery Needle
Skill Level
Intermediate
Finished Measurements
| Size | Length | Chest |
| S | 20.5” | 35” |
| M | 20.5” | 39” |
| L | 21.5” | 43” |
| XL | 21.5” | 47” |
| 2X | 22.5” | 51” |
| 3X | 23.5” | 55” |
| 4X | 24.5” | 59” |
| 5X | 25.5” | 63” |
Yardage Estimates
| Size | Yardage | # of Skeins |
| S | 725 | 3 |
| M | 775 | 4 |
| L | 850 | 4 |
| XL | 975 | 4 |
| 2X | 1100 | 5 |
| 3X | 1225 | 5 |
| 4X | 1350 | 6 |
| 5X | 1475 | 6 |
Abbreviations – US Terminology
ch = chain, sk = skip, st = stitch, yo = yarn over, tss = tunisian simple stitch, etss = extended tss
tes = tunisian edge stitch, tps = tunisian purl stitch, rtn = return , sl st = slip stitch, sc = single crochet
Gauge
20 sts x 10 rows = 4 x 4 inches, according to the instructions given below:
Row 1: Ch 20, pull up a loop in the second ch from the hook and in each ch across.
Rtn: Ch 1, *yarn over and pull through 2 loops* repeat the starred section until one loop remains on your hook.
Row 2: Ch 1, sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar,
etss in the skipped vertical bar
sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar,
etss in the skipped vertical bar
*sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the edge of your work.
Tes: Insert your hook under two loops on the edge of your work, pull up a loop, rtn.
Row 3: Ch 1, etss in the second vertical bar,
sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar
etss in the skipped vertical bar
*sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the last vertical bar, etss in the last vertical bar, tes, rtn.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 for a total of 10 rows.
How Do You Count Your Stitches?
Remember that the first loop that starts on your hook counts as one stitch, as does the edge stitch. Each vertical bar counts as one stitch. Each crossed set of vertical bars count as two stitches.
How Do You Count Your Rows?
I find that it is easiest to move diagonally when counting the rows for this particular stitch pattern.
What If Your Gauge Is Off?
If your swatch ends up too small, try again with a larger hook size – 1 half or full size up.
If your swatch ends up too big 4×4 inches, try again with a smaller hook size – 1 half or full size down.
If your number of rows is right but your number of stitches is off, you will need to try again with a different size hook.
If your number of stitches is right, but your number of rows is off, that’s ok. I have given measurements as well as row counts to make it easier.
Pattern
Visualizing the Pattern: Our starting chain is represented by the green line. The arrows represent the direction of the work. We’ll start with the section labeled A and then reattach our yarn on the opposite side of the starting chain for the section labeled B. The first few rows of each section will include increases. These increases will make the V.
Starting Chain:
| S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
| 92 | 92 | 94 | 94 | 96 | 100 | 104 | 108 |
You can add more chain stitches here or take some away to adjust the length of your top. Just keep it an even number!
Panel A
Row 1: Pull up a loop in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, Rtn.
Row 2: Ch 1, *sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the edge of your work, insert your hook in the space between the last vertical bar and the edge of your work, pull up a loop and ch 1, tes, rtn.
Row 3: Ch 1, etss, *sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the edge of your work, insert your hook in the space between the last vertical bar and the edge of your work, pull up a loop and ch 1, tes, rtn.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until Panel A reaches the following row total or measurement:
| S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
| 12 | 12 | 14 | 14 | 16 | 16 | 18 | 18 |
| 4.5” | 4.5” | 5” | 5” | 6” | 6” | 6.5” | 6.5” |
Row 4: Ch 1, *sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the edge of your work, tes, rtn.
Row 5: Ch 1, etss, *sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the last vertical bar, etss in the last vertical bar, tes, rtn.
Repeat rows 4 & 5 until Panel A reaches the following row total or measurement:
| S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
| 24 | 27 | 30 | 32 | 35 | 38 | 41 | 43 |
| 8.75” | 9.75” | 10.75” | 11.75” | 12.75” | 13.75” | 14.75” | 15.75” |
Slip Stitch Bind Off: *tss, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook,* repeat the starred section across. Fasten off.
Panel B
Row 1: Reattach your yarn at the top of the starting ch (as indicated by the yellow star). Pull up a loop in each ch across, rtn.
Row 2: Ch 1, etss, insert your hook into the space between the first and second vertical bars and pull up a loop, ch 1,
*sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the second vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the last vertical bar, etss in the last vertical bar, tes, rtn.
Row 3: Ch 1, etss in the second vertical bar, insert your hook into the space between the first and second vertical bars and pull up a loop, ch 1, *sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the edge of your work, tes, rtn.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until Panel B reaches the following row total or measurement:
| S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
| 12 | 12 | 14 | 14 | 16 | 16 | 18 | 18 |
| 4.5” | 4.5” | 5” | 5” | 6” | 6” | 6.5” | 6.5” |
Row 4: Ch 1, etss, *sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the edge of your work, tes, rtn.
Row 5: Ch 1, *sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the last vertical bar, etss in the last vertical bar, ets, rtn.
Repeat rows 4 & 5 until Panel B reaches the following row total or measurement:
| S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
| 24 | 27 | 30 | 32 | 35 | 38 | 41 | 43 |
| 8.75” | 9.75” | 10.75” | 11.75” | 12.75” | 13.75” | 14.75” | 15.75” |
Slip Stitch Bind Off: *tss, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook,* repeat the starred section across. Fasten off.
Visualizing the Pattern: Our starting chain is represented by the green line. The arrow represents the direction of the work. (Lefties will be working in the reverse direction). For the first section labeled “solid” we’ll be using the same stitch pattern that we used for the front.
We’ll continue on to the second section labeled “lace” without fastening off our yarn. We’ll be learning a new tunisian lace stitch pattern for this part. Then we’ll transition back into solid rows for the final section labeled “solid.” Again, we will not fasten off between sections.
Starting Chain:
| S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
| 104 | 104 | 108 | 108 | 112 | 116 | 122 | 126 |
***If you adjusted the length of the starting chain for the front then your starting chain here will be the number you used for the front plus the number of increasing rows on your panel A.***
Row 1: Pull up a loop in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, Rtn.
Row 2: Ch 1, *sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the edge of your work, tes, rtn.
Row 3: Ch 1, etss, *sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the last vertical bar, etss in the last vertical bar, tes, rtn.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until your work reaches the following row total or measurement:
| S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
| 17 | 17 | 19 | 19 | 23 | 23 | 27 | 27 |
| 6” | 6” | 7” | 7” | 8” | 8” | 10” | 10” |
Row 4: Ch 1, tps 2, etss the next 2 vertical bars together,
tps in the space between the current stitch and the next,
*etss the next 2 vertical bars together, tps in the space between the current stitch and the next* repeat the starred section across to the last two vertical bars, tps 2, tes, rtn.
Row 5: Ch 1, tps, *etss the next 2 vertical bars together, tps in the space between the current stitch and the next,* repeat the starred section across to the last vertical bar, tps, tes, rtn. Here’s a close up of the transition between the solid and lace sections. If yours looks like this, then you’re on the right track! Your stitches will open up quite a bit upon blocking.
Repeat rows 4 & 5 until your work reaches the following row total or measurement:
| S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
| 27 | 31 | 33 | 37 | 41 | 45 | 49 | 53 |
| 10” | 11” | 12” | 13.5” | 15” | 16.5” | 18” | 19.5” |
Row 6: Ch 1, *sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar, etss in the skipped vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the edge of your work, tes, rtn.
Row 7: Ch 1, etss, *sk 1 vertical bar, etss in the next vertical bar* repeat the starred section across to the last vertical bar, etss in the last vertical bar, tes, rtn.
Repeat rows 6 & 7 until your work reaches the following row total or measurement:
| S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
| 44 | 46 | 52 | 56 | 63 | 67 | 77 | 81 |
| 16” | 17” | 19” | 20.5” | 23” | 24.5” | 28” | 29.5” |
Slip Stitch Bind Off: *tss, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook,* repeat the starred section across. Fasten off.
Blocking
For the front: lay the piece out flat and pin in place on blocking boards or a flattened cardboard box. Spray lightly with water and leave to air dry.
For the back: Separate your blocking boards into two groups or cut your flattened cardboard in half. Pin around the solid sections on the right and left. Spray lightly with water. Gently pull your two blocking halves away from each other to stretch out your lace stitches 2-3 inches. Put something heavy on the edges of your boards to keep them still.
Assembly
Sandwich your front and back pieces together with the wrong sides facing out. Measure for armhole depth according to the chart below and use stitch markers to mark them as shown.
Armhole Depth:
| S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
| 7” | 7.5” | 8” | 8.5” | 9” | 9.5” | 10” | 10.5” |
Holding both pieces together, sl st or sew along the shoulders and sides as indicated by the dotted lines. Turn your top right side out and then single crochet evenly around the neck, arm holes and hem.
Drawstring
Starting Chain:
| S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
| 194 | 194 | 198 | 198 | 202 | 210 | 218 | 126 |
It should be a bit more than twice the length of your top. Knot one end of your chain stitches onto an embroidery needle. Starting from the right side of the middle of your hem, work up the length of your top threading in and out of the stitches. Then come back down the opposite side of the middle.
You can let the drawstrings hang freely or tighten and knot them to make it ruched. Swap between the two looks as often as you’d like!
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Copyright © 2019-2024 Nine Inspired. All rights reserved. Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern. I would appreciate it if you would credit Nine Inspired as the designer.