Designing this girls crochet dress pattern was a labor of love. It took an insane amount of time and multiple attempts but I’m finally satisfied with the result. I designed this whole getup from head to toe as a Halloween costume for my daughter. It is inspired by her favorite cartoon character Star Butterfly. Of course, the girls crochet dress pattern is the star of the show, and it would look just as adorable without the octopus applique if that’s not your cup of tea. The pattern includes sizes 2-10 but I really wanted this dress to fit well for a wide variety of kiddos so I have included detailed instructions on customizing those sizes.
Features of this Girls Crochet Dress Pattern:
-seamless design with no sewing
-easy shaping without counting every stitch
-Peter Pan collar, scalloped edge sleeves & ruffled hem
The bulk of this girls crochet dress pattern is worked in the herringbone half double crochet stitch. I chose this stitch because it looks great, it feels great and it makes the fabric drape beautifully. You could choose to use regular half double crochets if you would like but I highly recommend trying the herringbone half double crochet!
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Materials
- 3 skeins Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Ice (4 skeins for sizes 8 and 10)
- 1 skein Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in White
- 5.5 mm Crochet Hook
- 6.5 mm Crochet Hook
- 12 Stitch Markers
Skill Level
Intermediate
Sizes
2 (4, 6, 8, 10)
Yardage
2 = 550 yards Ice (502 meters), 50 yards White (46 meters)
4 = 600 yards Ice (549 meters), 60 yards White (55 meters)
6 = 650 yards Ice (598 meters), 70 yards White (60 meters)
8 = 700 yards Ice (640 meters), 80 yards White (73 meters)
10 = 750 yards Ice (685 meters), 90 yards White (82 meters)
Abbreviations
US Terminology
ch = chain
sk = skip
sc = single crochet
sp = space
hhdc = herringbone half double crochet
dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
v-st = (hhdc, ch 1, hhdc)
dec = decrease
inc = increase
flo = front loops only
Gauge
With 5.5 mm hook
Row 1: Ch 16, dc in the 3rd ch from the hook and each ch across (14) Rows 2-8: Ch 2, dc in the same st and each st across. (14)
Your swatch should roughly measure 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm). If not, adjust hook size up or down accordingly
Notes
A larger hook is used for the starting chain so the neckhole isn’t too tight for your child’s head. Alternatively, you can do your first row with foundation single crochets which are stretchier than chain stitches.
You may choose to use regular half double crochet stitches rather than the herringbone style ones, as long as you can obtain the correct gauge.
Measurements
Dress sizes are designed around the average measurements for children of the specified age. For the best fit, please measure your child and decide which size to make based off these measurements instead of just how old they are.
Chest – Measure around the fullest part of the child’s bare chest. Don’t pull your measuring tape super tightly.
2 = 21 inches (53 centimeters)
4 = 23 inches (58.5 centimeters)
6 = 25 inches (63.5 centimeters)
8 = 26.5 inches (67 centimeters)
10 = 28 inches (71 centimeters)
Yoke
Ch 56 (60, 64, 68, 68) with ice and your 6.5 mm hook, sl st to the first ch without twisting.
Round 1: ch 2, v-st in the same st, hhdc 18 (19, 20, 21, 21), v-st, hhdc 8 (9, 10, 11, 11), v-st, hhdc 18 (19, 20, 21, 21), v-st, hhdc 8 (9, 10, 11 ,11) , sk the starting ch and first hhdc and sl st to the ch 1 sp of the first v-st.
Round 2: ch 2, v-st in the same st, (hhdc to the corner, v-st in the ch sp) repeat 3 times. Hhdc to the end of the round, hhdc in the sl st from the previous round (to make up for the skipped stitch from the last round), sk the starting ch and first hhdc and sl st to the ch 1 sp of the first v-st.
Repeat round 2 for a total of 12 (14, 14, 16, 18) rows.
Note: the number of these rounds is determined based on the average length from the top of the child’s shoulder to the armpit. Feel free to add or subtract rows here if you get a different measurement for your child.
2 = 4.25 inches (10.5 centimeters)
4 = 4.75 inches (12 centimeters)
6 = 5 inches (12.5 centimeters)
8 = 5.5 inches (14 centimeters)
10 = 6 inches (15.5 centimeters)
Create arm holes: ch 2, hhdc in the same st and then hhdc to the next corner, hhdc in the ch sp, ch 2, sk all the stitches until the next corner, hhdc in the ch sp, hhdc to the next corner, hhdc in the ch sp, ch 2, sk all the stitches until the next corner, hhdc in the sl st from the previous round, sl st to the first hhdc of the round.
Continue to the next section without fastening off.
Chest
Ch 2, hhdc in the same st and each st around, sl st to the first hhdc of the round.
Repeat chest rounds until you have a total of 24 (26, 28, 35, 40) rounds.
Note: the number of these rounds is determined based on the average length from the base of the neck to the child’s natural waistline minus 1.5 inches (4 centimeters). Feel free to add or subtract rows here if you get a different measurement for your child.
2 = 8.5 inches (21.5 centimeters)
4 = 9.5 inches (24 centimeters)
6 = 10.5 inches (26.5 centimeters)
8 = 12.5 inches (31.5 centimeters)
10 = 14 inches (35.5 centimeters)
Continue to the next section without fastening off.
Waist
Evenly space four stitch markers around: 2 on
the front and 2 on the back.
**Waist Shaping: ch 2, hhdc in the same st and each st around, dec when you reach each stitch marker for a total of 4 decreases, sl st to
the first hhdc of the round.
The next 2 rounds: ch 2, hhdc in the same st and each st around, sl st to the first hhdc of the round. Repeat from ** once more.
Continue to the next section without fastening off.
Skirt
Evenly space 12 stitch makers around, 6 on the front and 6 on the back.
Ch 2, working in the flo, hhdc in the same st and each st around, inc when you reach each stitch marker for a total of 12 increases, sl st to the first hhdc of the round.
The next 3 rounds: working in both loops, ch 2, hhdc in the same st and each st around, sl st to the first hhdc of the round.
You may want to move your stitch markers up closer at this point.
Ch 2, working in the flo, hhdc in the same st and each st around, inc when you reach each stitch marker for a total of 12 increases, sl st to the first hhdc of the round.
The next 3 rounds: working in both loops, ch 2, hhdc in the same st and each st around, sl st to the first hhdc of the round.
Remove two of your stitch markers and evenly space the remaining 10 around, 5 on the front and 5 on the back.
***Ch 2, working in the flo, hhdc in the same st and each st around, inc when you reach each stitch marker for a total of 10 increases, sl st to the first hhdc of the round.
The next 5 rounds: working in both loops, ch 2, hhdc in the same st and each st around, sl st to the first hhdc of the round.
Repeat from *** for a total of 41 (60, 65, 79, 89) rounds.
Note: the number of these rounds is determined based on the average length from a child’s natural waist to their knee minus 3.5 inches (9 centimeters). Feel free to add or subtract rows here if you get a different measurement for your child or if you would prefer a shorter or longer skirt.
2 = 9 inches (23 centimeters)
4 = 11.5 inches (29 centimeters)
6 = 12.5 inches (32 centimeters)
8 = 15 inches (38 centimeters)
10 = 16.5 inches (42 centimeters)
Last round: ch 2, working in the flo, hhdc in the same st and each st around, sl st to the first hhdc of the round. Fasten off.
Collar
Round 1: with white yarn and your 5.5 mm hook, attach your yarn in the middle of one of the longer sides of your yoke. Ch 2, hhdc around, do not join, turn.
Rounds 2-4: ch 2, dec over the first 2 stitches, hhdc around until there are 2 stitches left, dec over the last 2 stitches, turn.
Round 5: ch 2, hhdc in the first st and each st around. Do not turn. Hhdc along the raw edge, sl st to the middle of the yoke where you first attached your yarn, hhdc up the other raw edge, sl st to the corner. Fasten off.
Sleeves
Round 1: with ice yarn and your 5.5 mm hook, attach your yarn in one of the armpits. Ch 2, hhdc in the first st and each st around, sl st to the first hhdc.
Repeat until you have a total of 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) rounds.
Place a single stitch marker on the top of the sleeve round where the shoulder will be.
Ch 2, hhdc in the first st and each st around, dec when you get to the stitch marker, sl st to the first hhdc.
Repeat until you have a total of 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) rounds.
Switch to white yarn.
The next round: Ch 2, working in the flo, hhdc in the first st and each st around, sl st to the first hhdc.
The next round: Ch 2, hhdc in the first st and each st around.
The next round: Ch 2, *sk 2, dc 5 in the next st, sk 2, sl st in the next st, repeat from * until you finish the round. It’s ok if you end up with a couple extra stitches at the end of the round because it will be in the armpit and no one will see it. Fasten off.
Ruffle Hem
You will be working through the unused back loops of the last round. Attach your white yarn in any loop.
Ch 3, *dc in the next 2, inc, repeat from * around, sl st to the top of the ch 3. Fasten off.
Blocking
I know it’s tempting but don’t skip this step! It’s worth it to make your finished product look extra amazing!
Completely submerge the dress in water for 15-30 minutes.
Take the dress out and squeeze out some of the water. DO NOT WRING the dress or you could distort the stitches.
Sandwich the dress between 2 clean towels and roll them all up together like a sleeping bag.
Press down on the roll until the towels have absorbed most of the water from the dress.
Take the dress out and lay it flat on a 3rd clean towel.
Gently pat your dress into the desired shape. You can use pins to help unruly bits stay where they are supposed to. I used pins on the ruffle hem.
Let it sit until it dries the rest of the way. You could maybe run a fan if you want it to go faster but I wouldn’t recommend leaving it in the sun because it could bleach out the colors.
Please do not redistribute this pattern as your own, but feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern as long as you credit Nine Inspired as the designer. I would love to see your work on social media! Tag me @nineinspired